Looking At The Boarded Horse - Options

Whether you are a college student or just “horse poor” (or both), there comes a time when your horse budget isn’t always what you would like it to be. There are a lot of things you would like to buy for your horse or need for your horse, but right now you can barely afford to feed both of you. Don’t worry because there are many options that you can explore.



First, you might need to consider your current boarding situation. Depending on what part of the country you live in the cost of boarding is going to vary. Can you really afford full care boarding right now or are you going to have to start doing some of the work? Find out if your current boarding facility is willing to work with you. Will they allow you to do partial-care board at a reduced rate or pasture board? Will they let you help them in some of their daily duties and reduce your rent for your hard work? Is it time to move your horse? Look for smaller facilities that meet your needs, often they will have reduced rates than other barns. Would you be willing to feed somebody else’s horses for board? These options need to be researched and explored. I have been successful in running ads in the Thrifty Nickel newspaper stating, “Will feed or ride for boarding.” I currently board for free because I take care of a couple’s farm while they go out of town. It works well for both of us and I have been at this facility for two years now and have become great friends with the couple. Also, do you have friends or family that have land or other horses? Would they let you keep your horse there if you help them out? Most importantly, always get an agreement in writing. This helps in the fact that both parties know the terms of the agreement and if anything is to happen you have your agreement in writing.



Secondly, let’s look at your horse’s diet. You need to consider what type of work your horse is doing and what his energy requirements are. An adult horse only requires 8% crude protein diet and this can be provided from a 100% hay diet for maintenance on a horse that is lightly worked. A younger horse is going to require a 10-12% crude protein diet depending on whether or not he is in training and being rapidly grown or not. If you feed a balanced sweet feed with a good grass or alfalfa hay then you will be able to meet their energy requirements. If he seems to lose weight, gradually increase his feed a little more until he stops losing weight. He certainly does not require a fat added or high protein diet, unless he is doing intense work like roping, cutting or jumping. Most feed stores carry a basic sweet feed that is 10-14% crude protein for $5 to $6 a bag.



If you live in the West Texas or New Mexico area, you know that we are in a drought and hay prices have soared. Not to mention the cost of gas isn’t helping much either. You can hardly find a round bale of Coastal grass hay for less than $75 out here. I suggest finding a hay wholesaler where you can load the hay yourself out of the field or a barn for less than what you would pay at the feed store. If you have the space, stock up on as much as you can for a few months. This will be expensive initially but it is better than buying it a few bales at a time.



Shop around for farriers and see what they are charging for a hoof trim. If you are on a very tight budget, then you probably should have your horses shoes pulled. He will like being barefoot and you can still ride. Unless your horse has lameness problems and requires special shoes, it will be cheaper for you to pull his shoes and have him trimmed regularly.



Obviously there are going to be a few expenses that are just necessary. These include your regular vaccinations, deworming every six months and those unexpected expenses from injuries, illness, etc. Talk to your vet about doing your own vaccinations, this will save you an office charge and a trip with your horse to the vet. Most vaccinations are simple to give and your vet can instruct you on how to do them yourself. Keep your horse on a good deworming schedule; this will save you money in the long run.



If you can’t afford these basic maintenance expenses, then you should probably look into selling your horse or leasing him out. I have successfully kept my horse for about $150/month at boarding facilities through my tight college years. It can be done on a tight budget and you will not believe how many people will be willing to help you. You just might have to do things a little unconventionally, but that’s okay because it will all work out in the long run.


If you are a horse lover like we are please visit our Award winning EquestrianHorseForum and if you have horses for sale our 12 site classified network is almost finished! How exciting make sure to bookmark it at horsechitchat


Have a great ride and make sure you stop by and say hello. We will leave the barn door open for you!


Horsechitchat.com

What type of Specialized Shoeing Does Your Horse Need?

All horse shoes are not created equal! In fact, the type of shoes your horse wears, as well as how he is shod, will depend upon the discipline he participates in. Shoeing your horse according to discipline gives your horse the best opportunity for success. In this article, we'll look at the shoeing needs of the long-distance riding horse, show jumping horse, driving horse, and race horse. As always, consult with your veterinarian and vet regarding your horse's particular shoeing needs.


Long-distance riding


Long-distance riding, which focuses on the horse's physical fitness, is one of the horse world's fastest growing divisions. Rides can be different lengths, but some rides go 100 miles in a day, and some even extend over several days! To say that long-distance riding is gruelling and challenging is an understatement indeed!


The distance riding horse must go long distances on varied terrain, and the concussion to his feet is prolonged and intense. To this end, safety and comfort should always be the first consideration when shoeing a horse who goes the distance. This will cut down on early fatigue. Your farrier can ensure that your horse's shoes fit correctly according to his conformation, and are comfortable and balanced. Some people use full sole pads under the shoes. The advantage of these is that they protect against bruising and other injuries from rocks, stones, etc. The disadvantage is that pads will cause the sole to soften over time.


There are a few types of shoes in particular that are attractive to owners of distance horses. A popular choice is wide-webbed aluminum shoes. These disperse the concussive effect, are light, and wear well. Some even come with steel inserts in the toes to prolong wear.


Driving


What is the job of a driving horse? To pull weight, of course! Whether you are using your horse on your farm, or whether he is followed by a fancy show carriage, it all boils down to the same thing. Your horse is pulling a load!


Since driving horses usually work at relatively slow speeds, interference isn't usually an issue. To that end a plain stamped shoe without any fullering or groove through the metal allows for the most wear. Since the driving horse usually sees the most wear on the toes of the hind shoe, this is usually thickened. The hind shoe is also fitted with a toe clip for more wear.


Racing


In order to do his job right, the racehorse must have the right conformation for racing. To this end it's always a good idea to find a farrier who has lots of experience monitoring and trimming the feet of racehorses. Obviously, the shoeing should be designed so that the horse can perform at his highest speed. Light, correctly fitting shoes are sensible. Since the horse isn't carrying too much extra weight on his feet he won't tire as easily as he would wearing heavier shoes. A horse who tires will most likely have some interference, which can cause injury, especially in a horse moving at such high speeds. Front shoes are generally fitted according to the shape of the foot, while three-quarter rear shoes ensure that brushing is prevented.


In addition, how a horse is shod will have a lot to do on the surface he is racing on. In wet conditions, for example, the hind shoes might be removed to prevent the horse from over-reaching. Again, the importance of having a farrier who knows a bit about racing can't be stated enough!


Show Jumping


The goal of the show horse is to jump as high and as fast as possible. Horses place a lot of stress on their feet, joints, and tendons on both the take-off and landing. Your farrier should trim your horse's feet to make up for any conformation issues, and a shoe should be applied that provides maximum cover on the ground surface. Shoes with short toes and good support at the heels are extremely important to the show jumping horse.


So make sure you talk with your farrier and make sure that you address your horses specific needs and listen when he/she gives you some advice on what you can do to help your horses feet.


Take care and happy trails, we would like to see you at our award winning horse forum. Make sure to bookmark it as soon as you arrive, we will leave the barn door open.


Ron
EquestrianHorseForum

Look for the "Right Stuff" when buying a horse

Has buying a horse got you confused? If your are looking to compare apples to apples—er, Quarter horses to Quarter horses, I mean—then there are a few things you must consider with each and every horse you look at. Here's the list:

• Temperament. A horse's temperament is extremely important to your overall experience. If you are a beginning rider, temperament is probably the most important factor when it comes to choosing a horse. A horse of good temperament is alert and ready to work, but also calm and willing.

• Manners. Manners are extremely important! They can mean the difference between a horse being easy to live with, and a horse being not-so-easy to live with! When looking at horses for sale and horses for sale, make sure you watch their behavior as they are being caught, handled, and ridden. And keep in mind that just like with us humans, bad habits can be hard to break!

• Soundness. If you are planning on riding your horse, working soundness is key. This means that the horse should not have any lamenesses that prevents the horse from moving correctly and therefore succeeding at its intended purpose. Horses who aren't being ridden need to be checked for soundness depending upon what you are planning on using them for. For example, if you are looking for a broodmare, a breeding unsoundness would prevent the mare from having a foal. However, that same mare may be a great family riding horse!

• Movement. Good riding horses
should move smoothly and in balance, without stiffness, crookedness, or interference. When looking at younger horses, keep in mind that some of a horse's gait is determined by training. If you have questions about a horse's gait, it always helps to get an experienced horse person to look at the horse and give you his opinion. Is the horse's way of going inherent, or is it something that can be improved with a little training? Be sure you watch the horse at all three gaits. If you ride the horse, is the horse comfortable? If you are a beginning rider, comfort is very important!

• Conformation. The way a horse is built will determine how a horse moves. It goes without saying that the horse shouldn't have any glaring conformational faults that affect its way of going. Aside from that, the conformation of the horse should be suitable for the manner in which you intend to use him. If you are not educated when it comes to horse conformation, take someone along who is.

• Health. How healthy is the horse you are looking at? Ask to see the horse's health records, to determine if their is anything long-standing, recurring, or permanent that would have to be dealt with. Temporary health issues can be easier to deal with and you may even get your horse at a discount price as a result. However, do remember that if you intend to buy a horse and then nurse him back to health, there's a good chance you'll have to spend time and money that you wouldn't have spent on a healthier horse.

• Accomplishments. What has your horse done in the past? This may be a very important consideration if you are looking for a horse to show you the ropes; on the other hand, it may not be a consideration at all if you intend to train the horse yourself.

• Size. In the world of horses, size does matter! It is important that your horse fits you. As a general rule of thumb, bigger horses are more desirable because they can accommodate a wider range of riders. If you are looking at a smaller horse make sure your legs can fall in the right position. In other words, your heel should not be below the horse's underline. If you are not certain, ask someone else how you look on the horse.

There sure is a lot to consider when looking at horses for sale and selecting the right horse. However, it's important to know that careful selection will result in years of enjoyment. Take your time!

Stopping the Lead Rope Breaker

There are many horses that have found the best way to get out of working, is to sit back and break their rope, halter, bridle, reins, etc. They learn that if the break it, then they will be put back in their stall or out to pasture, while you go hunt down a spare or go buy a new one. How you handle this situation, however, will also be the start of new habits for your horse, either good or bad.

The key to this situation is finding out the core of the problem. Why does your horse rear back when he is tied? Many horses know that this is a way of getting out of work, while other horses may be reacting out of fear. When you tie your horse, you are taking away his ability of flight. Horses are innate fight or flight animals and the majority of them prefer to fly. Many people have used numerous tricks to keep their horses from breaking their equipment. From stronger lead ropes to bungee cords, people have tied their horses up and try to make them “get used to it.” Everything is more frightening to a horse when they are tied up, from sneezes to phone calls, just about anything will set these horses off. They are often usually leery of being tied up from bad experiences as colts or they may have never been taught to yield to pressure or how to tie properly.

Many horses that rear back have never really been halter broke and may have never really learned about responding to pressure properly. Many people will halter their colts and figure the colt is halter broke because they follow them around like puppies. This is not necessarily the case, the first time that colt feels pressure on his head, he is going to have a fit and rear back. You will first want to begin by teaching the horse to respond to light pressure from the halter. You want them to learn to follow a feel. You will begin by applying slight pressure to the halter from the lead rope, the instant the horse reacts you will give him slack. You don’t want to pull strongly on the halter as this will only result in a brace and lean from the horse. You just want the horse to learn to follow a feel and teach him that his reaction does not have to be dramatic.

The key is to teach your horse to be confident, work with him and apply pressure in a variety of ways. You may also want to begin teaching your horse to tie by standing still and not tied to anything at all. If you are afraid the horse is going to wonder off, just loop your lead rope around your fence pole once. This will supply enough pressure to keep him in one place, but if he feels the need to rear back he won’t meet any resistance. This will also keep you from having to buy a new halter.

As your horse gains confidence, you will start exposing him to new situations and activities, but always allow him to feel as if he can come and go as he pleases. This will allow him to approach things that he is curious about without having to commit. Soon, the horse will become used to a lot of new sounds and objects and very few things will excite him or scare him.


Thanks for taking the time to read my rant! I hope you will stop by our growing revamped equine network


Happy Trails and Training


Equineman

Horses and Computers = Instant Addict

I need parental controls for my computer!

No, it’s not what you think- I don’t have a young child who I want to protect from pornography sites or Internet predators. I need parental controls for ME. I need a program designed to block me every time I surf on over to HorseChitChat, “just to look”. Something that will prevent me from being able to browse the rescue websites, ripe with statements like “these broodmares must be rescued in three days or they will go to slaughter!”

You see, I’m a sucker. I don’t fall for pyramid schemes, and I never buy anything unless I know what it costs, what it should cost, and what it costs at three other places. But when it comes to horses, I am weak.

It all started about 10 years ago, when I innocently started looking at horse rescues in my area. I already had a perfectly nice, sound, competitive horse at the time- but I was bored, and wanted a project. It seemed simple enough- rescue a nice horse that is going to be killed, put some time and training on it, sell it to a good home, and rescue another one.

Simple, right? It sounded like a good plan to me, so I found a flashy bay Thoroughbred type mare that was going to slaughter, and brought her home. She was three, and not even broke to the halter, but she was cute and athletic, and had lots of potential. In the beginning, things went OK. She was headstrong, but smart, and within about 6 months she was broke to ride and going like an average young horse, but with a few more surprises in store.

She had a way of making you think that you were totally in control and everything was going great- until she changed her mind, and left you sitting in mid air, wondering where the horse that was just under you had gone. She was difficult to read, and when she was good, you never trusted it completely, and waited for the other shoe to drop.

After a good foundation in dressage, we started doing some small jumping, and she showed a natural talent, and looked to be a nice little amateur hunter. But despite continued training, lessons, clinics, she still had the tendency to be unpredictable. Ok, looking back, I now see that she was often really, really bad… but the times when she was good, she was so very good that she could string you along, and I put up with the many bad times for those few times when she showed such promise. I kept thinking she would grow out of it…

Throughout this time, she began showing signs of foot soreness- subtle at first, and easily controlled with shoeing. We started to show a bit, and while we didn’t win any championships, we didn’t embarrass ourselves either. She’d have a bout of lameness, we’d take a few weeks off for shoeing changes, injections or whatever else seemed to help for a short time. Then she’d come back for a few weeks, get ready to show again- and go lame again.

This continued for about 4 years, until the lameness began getting worse, and the riding times were well shorter than the lame times. She hadn’t grown out of her bouts of temper tantrums or occasional bad behavior- if anything, they got worse the older she got.

At this point, I had put so much money into training and vet care, and so much of myself into bringing her along, that I was devastated. I found a pasture where she could live, and turned her out- and she’s never been happier.

As for myself, despite my experience with this mare, I’ve fallen for the same “scheme” of horses a few more times since. A lovely mare with an injury, who just needed a place to recuperate for a while before she was going to be a great show prospect… that one keeps the first mare company in the pasture. And another, a gelding rescued as a weanling who required several surgeries to fix the infirmities inherited to him by poor genetics- the jury is still out on him, but I’m not holding my breath… oh well, I guess the mares won’t mind a gelding to keep them company.

Yes, I need parental controls on my computer. Something that will never let me look at another picture of a horse headed to slaughter, or one that has been abandoned and needs just “one surgery to be 100%”. I can’t look- and if I do, I’ll bring it home- and there is definitely no room at this inn. Despite the best intentions, lots of hard work, and too much money, all I’ve got to show for it are three very happy, fat pasture ornaments, who I am sure will live with me forever, blissfully ignorant of my now-antiquated desire to save their lives, then find them good homes.

And my original horse, the one I was bored with when I decided to get my first rescue? Yep, he’s still going. I have to have at least one to ride, don’t I?

I also have a big issue with horse forums they are such a great to talk about horses and get answers to any questions I may have. The problem lies with how many hours I spend on them! Especially when they are as friendly as horsechitchat's forum.

Well enough for now I have to go look at some horses! :)

Equineman

EquestrianHorseForum

How to Size a Horse Blanket

Mid - Winter is a great time to purchase blankets for your horse, as many tack shops put them on sale to get rid of their pre-winter inventory. If you know how to size your horse blankets before you go shopping it is much easier on you and your gas bill rather than making multiple trips to the tack store trying to get the right fit. This knowledge is also helpful if you are ordering a custom blanket online.

Begin by standing your horse up squarely. If he won’t cooperate have someone else assist you with either the holding or the measuring. If you don’t have help have him tied up and try to get him to stand as square as possible.

Stand on your horse’s left and place the end of your measuring tape in your left hand and place it where the horse’s neck meets the center of his chest. With your right hand, draw the tape along the side as far as you can. Be sure that the tape crosses the widest part of his shoulder. If you measure too low then the chest blanket will be too small. The tape needs to be level and taut as well or you will end up adding extra inches and end up with a blanket that is too long lengthwise.

Once you have reached as far as you can, hold your thumb on that spot of the horse and note your measurement. Then measure from your thumb across the point of his hindquarters, about 10 or 12 inches below where the horse’s tail meets the body. Note your measurement at the edge of his tail.

Add your two measurements to get the horse’s blanket size. Blankets tend to come in even sizes as small as 30 inches for foals and as long as 88 for large breeds. If you come out with an odd measurement, then round up to the next even number. If you are having a custom blanket made you may be able to get the exact measurement, but a couple extra inches will make sure that the blanket fits with a little space for movement as well.

By measuring your horse you will be able to have a good idea of what to shop for when you are hitting up all of the great summer sales at the local tack shop or online. These measurements will also work for other blankets such as fly sheets and coolers.

Have a fun winter ride and keep our friends nice and toasty!

Stop by our expanded and improved equine network at equineinterent.com & visit our horse forum and say hello we love horses as much as you.

Thanks again

Ron
Equineman

Save on your Horse Feed Bill!

5 Ways To Save On Your Feed Bill

Horse people are always eager to save money, especially if it can be done without sacrificing care for their horses. Few consider ways they're losing money on feed.

Storing and feeding of hay is a major expense. Improper storage wastes hay due to mold, broken bales and pests. Where possible keep hay off the ground - dampness often leads to losing most of the bottom layer of hay. If this can't be done - invest in cheap stuff to lose to make up that bottom layer. This keeps your good hay from getting bad on the bottom. Be sure to watch also for leaks in the roof or moisture on the walls where it can make contact with the hay.

Feed hay wisely.

In areas where hay has been hard to find many have taken to stretching their hay budget with other sources of fiber. Shredded beet pulp, hay cubes and more turnout are just a few ways. Be sure to soak the beet pulp and drain, and many advise the same for hay cubes. Smaller horses especially and those with bad teeth have a hard time eating the cubes. Read the package directions - for an average horse only three pounds of cubes are needed! This is not very much..and much less than many feed. Using a couple pounds of cubes, a little beet pulp and *good* hay might be a ticket to a better conditioned horse. Feed hay in a corner or, if outside, in a clean dry place. Some use old tubs with holes drilled in the bottom so they don't collect water. Keep the hay out of the mud and off of sandy areas, which can eventually lead to sand colic.
Storing and feeding grain is another way many lose money. A pile of bags is mouse and rat buffet! Keep grain supplies stored in containers to keep bugs, mice, rats, cats and anything else out of the grain. Keep it dry and invest in good quality. Avoiding water eliminates moldy spots on the bottom that have to be tossed.

Don't overfeed!

Most moderately active geldings do not need a 16% grain and alfalfa. Instead, consider the above hay regiment and a lower protein 10-11% which often is up to $5/bag cheaper. More importantly, the extra nutrition is wasted on horses that don't need it to maintain themselves. Bred mares, working performance horses, breeding stallions and other hard working animals can use a higher level of nutrition but for the average pleasure horse the lower protein better suits their needs.


Measure and weigh your feed.


Don't just toss a flake in - is that flake 8 pounds, 10 pounds or 20 pounds? That coffee can might hold 3 pounds of one feed or another feed 8 pounds - either of these cases it's a huge difference and can be a big waste of money as well as unhealthy for your horse. Weigh it - don't guess. If your feed calls for three pounds, measure three pounds then find a container that holds what you've measure...this can save you time because you know then that one container of it is three pounds.

Supplements are often much overdone. A good quality feeding program most of the time means many supplements aren't needed. However, there are areas that are low selenium, horses with joint issues, show or sale horses being conditioned and other situations where supplements are needed. Keep them stored dry and cool near the feed. Keep the containers up off the ground to eliminate getting tipped over and wasted. MEASURE! Those that come with a scoop and advise feeding one scoop per day follow that advice. Feeding two scoops doesn't give twice the benefit and in many cases is simply flushed through the horse's system unused and, thus, a waste of money.


Consider pastures a new feed source. Seed them with nutritious grasses or a grass/legume mix. Soil test, fertilize, use weed control practices and *use* those fields. A couple hours in a good pasture can do a horse wonders, save on the feed you need to buy and provide a forage that you know for sure what is in it. Avoid turning horses out when it is very muddy, when frozen or when the weight of feet can tear up fields. Limit horses with caulks or other shoes that can damage fields to just an hour or so per day. By making use of the turnout pastures you can contribute positively to the horse's diet and reduce your feed bill.


Purchase good quality hay and grain.

Discounted feed that is riddled with bugs or contaminated is not a bargain! Hay with trash, weeds and sticks in it is not a bargain. If there's a choice between clean grass hay and trashy alfalfa, go with the clean grass. You can supplement, as above, with hay cubes (alfalfa), pellets and other sources. Look closely at your feed. Evaluate if the horses are doing well on it.
If you're not happy with how your horses look, if they have health issues or are less than efficient, make some changes in your feeding program. Consider that if you have Feed A that recommends feeding 10 pounds per day and is $5.75 per 50# bag that's costing you $1.15/day. Feed B recommends feeding 3 pounds per day and is $10.95 per bag costs you would cost you relatively 66 cents per day to feed...and in the long run is cheaper! It will also last you longer per bag.

Use your feed dollars wisely. Fat is not healthy. Obesity is as much a health risk as starvation...it shortens your horse's life, it predisposes them to health issues and it's killing them with kindness. Feed a good quality program on a regular schedule. Make the most of your feed dollars!


Hope you enjoy this weeks rant


Ron Petracek
EquestrianHorseForum