Tuesday, May 19, 2009
Don’t Buy a Horse You Can’t Sit On, Put a Bit On, One that Scares You or One that Doesn’t Respond to Your Aids
Do your best to show up on time to your horse shopping appointments. Do not be afraid to ask the seller if you could be there while the horse is being prepared to ride so that you may see what the horse is used to and how he acts. Look for signs of bad behaviors that you do not want to deal with, for example, a horse that fights and slings its head when you are putting a bit in his mouth. You also want to watch the horse, as he is being cinched and mounted. This will give you an idea of how the horse is going to act when you get him home. If you wish, you may ask the seller if you could tack up the horse so that you may be able to get a better feel for the horse before riding it.
If a horse makes you nervous in any way, you are better off thanking the seller and moving on down the road. If you don’t feel safe sitting on the horse and having a casual conversation about him, then you do not want to purchase him. Also, if you can barely get on him in the first place, you do not want to buy him. Horses that have not had proper groundwork and training will often show these signs. When you bring a horse home, you will have to start from scratch and retrain all of his groundwork. Do not buy a horse if you do not have the abilities to retrain him or the money to retrain him.
A horse may not respond to your aids for two reasons. One reason is that he does not understand your aids because he has not been trained properly. The other reason is that he has been spurred, kicked and pulled on so much that he has learned to just ignore the rider. These horses can be dangerous because if the horse were to spook, you would have no resources available to stop the horse or control the horse. If you make simple requests of the horse and he fails to respond, then you may ask if the horse was trained to respond in a different way or why he may not be responding to your commands.
You are not always going to feel completely comfortable on a horse that you have never ridden before, but you should at least feel as though he is safe enough to ride and sit on. If you have any moment in which you feel unsafe or scared, get off the horse immediately. Do not try to ride him back to the barn or the seller, get off where you are at and lead the horse back to the barn or seller. Simply tell the buyer that you don’t think you are experienced enough for him and thank him for letting you look at the horse. Any horse seller will understand completely if you think that the horse is not for you.
Do Examine the Stable for Signs of Vices
Horses that are cribbers may not show this vice while they are in a pasture, although, some of them have been known to suck air on a fence post. If you are able to scope the horse about before officially meeting him, look for signs of weaving, cribbing and other vices. Cribbers will often be wearing a collar while they are in their stall or pasture. Vices may have serious effects on a horse’s physical well-being and they are not generally something that you will want to deal with.
If the inside of a stall is wooden, you will see teeth marks and chew marks on wood that is within reach of the horse. These horses are wood chewers and will continue to chew wood if you take him home. Cribbers will suck air on anything they can get their teeth on. These horses will bite down on something, arch their neck and suck in air. These horses tend to do this behavior after they have eaten. Both wood chewing and cribbing can cause digestive problems later down the road. Cribbers may be prone to gas colic because they are unable to release the gas and air in their stomachs. Cribbers can never be cured, but they can be treated through drugs, surgery and cribbing collars.
Other stable vices include weaving, box walking and stall kicking. Horses that are weavers will sway from side to side on their front legs. They may do this in their stall or the may do this while tied. The nose often moves in a figure eight fashion as the horse sways. This vice may supply the horse with some type of pleasure and many veterinarians suggest that the movement releases endorphins into the brain. The best way to prevent weaving is by allowing a horse adequate time in the pasture so that he will not have to occupy himself by moving excessively.
Horses that constantly turn circles in their stalls are considered box walkers. They often act oblivious to the world while they walk and may even barge into you. Many horses do this out of boredom and will often benefit from being turned out in a pasture or on a regular basis. Some horses may walk to relieve pain, this pain will be able to be determined if the horse continues his behavior in the pasture.
Wall and stall kicking occurs most frequently during feeding time. Some horses are food possessive and they may kick the walls to alert others to stay away. Then there are the door kickers who do it out of boredom. These door kickers put themselves at risk for lameness and soundness problems. They may even kick hard enough to break the little bones in their ankles. You will be able to see dents in the walls of horses that are kickers.
If there is any manure in the stall or pen, this is a good opportunity to see if the horse has any parasite or digestive problems. A horse that has parasites will generally pass them through their manure as well as any undigested corn. This will give you an idea of the level of care that the horse has received.
Do Think Long and Hard about Potential
All horses have “potential” for something. Many of them are sold as having “potential” and “prospects” in a variety of different classes. Every year there are thousands of Thoroughbred colts that are born and are described as having “potential” to be the next Kentucky Derby winner. This goes for hunters, pleasure horses and halter horses as well. No matter what discipline or equine sport, there are several colts born each year that have potential in some sort of discipline. Unless you are willing to put in the money to train a horse and work to make him successful will you have always have a horse that had “potential.”
Most horses that are described as being prospects or having potential tend to become horses that have either never trained and sometimes never even broke to ride. People buy these horses that have potential with dreams of grandeur in the show ring and then “life happens.” They never get them sent to that trainer that turns colts in to halter champions and often times they are put out to pasture and fed with little or no training. By purchasing one of these horses, you are committing yourself to caring for that horse even if you are unable to train him to be a world champion.
If you like to gamble, then you will buy a prospect. Equine potential is rarely realized and realizing that potential often comes with a hefty price tag. Only buy a horse that has prospect if you are sure that you are willing to pay the money to have the horse trained and showed properly. If you buy a horse that is considered to have potential, then you will be doing yourself a favor by sending him to the trainer right away. Do not buy a horse if you cannot send him to the trainer immediately to see that potential realized, otherwise, the horse might grow-up in your pasture with no ribbons and no titles.
If you are tempted to buy a horse that has been described as having “potential,” you should weigh the asking price against what it is going to cost to have the horse trained by a trainer, boarded and fed. When you purchase a horse, you will always be losing money in hay and feed, but is it worth it to board and train the horse as well? Even if you were able to go and win thousands of dollars at cutting and reining competitions, will the horse end up paying for itself in the long run? These are important points to cover before you decide to buy a horse that is described as having “potential.”
If you are a novice and have limited horse training and riding experience, you will not want to even consider purchasing a horse that is young and full of “potential.” You will end up spending more money and time on horse training, while you should be riding an experienced horse that you will be able to learn from.
Do Take a Trainer with You
Whether the trainer is your own or a friend, most trainers have the ability to pick out horses that are exceptional or average. They will also be able to tell you whether or not the horse is worth the asking price.
Have your trainer or other knowledgeable person ride the horse as well. This will give you something to compare your ride to. If the horse is dropping a shoulder or has a choppy stride, your trainer or friend will also be able to confirm what you felt in your ride. If you are new to the horse industry, the trainer will be able to help you look for good qualities in confirmation and movement of the horse.
A trainer will be able to help you examine both the good qualities and the bad qualities of a horse. The trainer will be able to tell you which confirmation flaws will affect performance and which confirmation flaws will not matter. They will also be able to tell you if the horse is performing in a proper manner that will make you a success in the show ring. As your trainer examines the horse, you will be able to examine the horse at the same time. Together, observe the horse in the stall, in a pasture and under saddle.
The temperament of the horse should be examines. You will want to get a good feeling of the horse’s attitude and disposition. Is the horse interested in you? Does the horse willingly come to you? These are important, as a horse that is standoffish may be more difficult for a novice to handle. Watch how the horse is handled and how he reacts to being handled.
Have the owner first ride the horse. How does the horse act for the owner? Watch the horse while he is being mounted; watch the horse as he works through his gaits. Does the horse look smooth? Does he swing his legs or does he have knee action? Knee action is required in many breeds such as Saddlebreds, but if you are looking at a Quarter Horse or Thoroughbred, you will want the horse to swing his legs from his shoulders and hips.
After the owner has ridden the horse, allow your trainer to ride the horse. The trainer will be able to ride the horse in the manner that you will eventually be riding the horse. The trainer will be able to assess what the horse knows and what the horse will need to be trained. After the trainer has rode the horse, then you should ride the horse. Have your trainer give you a short “lesson” on the horse and ride the horse as you will be riding the horse should you purchase him.
Do Buy a Horse that is Trained in Your Discipline
Do buy a horse that is trained in your discipline, as you do not want to have to retrain a horse to perform differently to suit your needs. It is true that Thoroughbreds have been used and have made great barrel horses, but you wouldn’t necessarily take that horse and ask him to perform in a Hunter class, nor would you ask a Hunter to run barrels. Buying a horse that is already trained for the discipline or activity you plan to pursue will keep you from spending more money in the long run.
There are several horses that have been trained and have made great all-around horses. If you are looking for a horse that can do everything, then you will want to ask the seller what other classes or areas the horse has performed in. If a horse has been shown in Western Pleasure, then there is a good chance that you will be able to teach him to lengthen his stride for a Hunter class, although I wouldn’t necessarily expect him to take jumps in Hunter Hack.
Choosing a discipline is something that you should think long and hard about before you go horse shopping. Most individuals begin by taking lessons in either English or Western and then go from there. There are those individuals who enjoy riding both and an all-around and versatile horse will suit their needs best. If you just plan on riding the horse on the weekends and on the trails, then you may want to ride Western for the extra comfort of the Western saddle on the trails. If you love the idea of wearing breeches and boots and taking jumps, then you will definitely want to choose English. There are also derivatives and variations of both these disciplines. Many trail riders and recreational riders enjoy the Australian saddles because they are a sort of hybrid between Western and English. There are also English style trail saddles that have been designed for added comfort. Choosing a discipline is important because after you go horse shopping, you will need to go tack shopping.
After you have chosen a discipline, then you will be able to define your riding goals. If you want to shoot for the National Finals Rodeo in roping, then you will know what type of horse you need to buy. If you aspire to compete in three-day events, then you will need a couple of different saddles and a few different riding clothes options. You will also need a horse that can jump and do dressage as well as be fit enough to cover many miles on a cross-country course.
Take into consideration any equine activities that you intend to participate in and then look for a horse that can help you achieve you goals.
Do Test Ride a Horse Multiple Times
The initial test ride is important, but you should always test ride a horse multiple time to ensure you get a clear picture of the horse and his attitude. Schedule multiple rides at different times of the day. This will help you see the differences in the horse in the morning, afternoon or evenings. This will help you get a clear picture of the horse and his ability. Also, if the horse was medicated the first time, there is a good chance that the horse will not be medicated every other time you ride the horse. If the horse acts very differently from the first time you rode him, then the horse may have been sedated.
If the horse is located at a riding stable, ask if you can take a few lessons on him to get a good idea of how the horse reacts to other horses and riders in an arena. If you are considering purchasing the horse as a trail horse, then you should ask if you could ride the horse on the trails. If you intend to do this, be sure to ask the seller if the horse is safe to ride on trails and if he has any riding experience on trails or outside of the arena.
If you plan on riding the horse English, then you should ride the horse English or if you ride Western, ride the horse Western. Every time you ride the horse, you need to ride as you will be riding when you take him home. Put the horse through his paces; work on maneuvers, figure eights, and gait transitions, everything that you will be doing at home or in your lessons. You can also ask your trainer or riding instructor to come along with you as well. Don’t just go to ride for ten minutes, but spend at least forty-five minutes to an hour riding the horse just as you would at home. Give him a good workout.
After you have rode the horse, spend time grooming him, just as you would a horse of your own. You want to get a clear picture of how the horse is going to act on a daily basis and any bad or good habits he has been trained. See if he prances while you tack and untack or if he nips at you while you groom him. These behaviors will be something that you will deal with on a daily basis and this is your chance to decide on what behaviors you can live with and which ones you won’t.
Each ride you take on the horse will give you a better idea of how the horse acts every time you ride. If he feels more solid and works well every time you ride, then you may have found your match. If you are still nervous on the third ride, then you may want to keep shopping. Don’t expect to find the perfect mount at the first barn you visit. The process and shopping may take weeks to months before you find a horse that matches your skill level and you feel comfortable with.
Don’t Be Afraid to Ask Questions
There are no stupid questions and this is especially true when it comes to horse shopping. In fact, you should ask every question that you can think of. The seller of a horse is required by law to answer every question you have to the best of their ability. Here are a few questions that you may ask the seller of a horse:
• Does the horse buck? Has the horse ever bucked?
• Does the horse kick? Has the horse ever kicked?
• Does the horse bite? Has the horse ever bitten a person?
• Has the horse ever ran away with someone?
• How old is the horse?
• What are the horse’s bloodlines?
• Is the horse registered? Can I see his papers?
• How long have you owned the horse and why are you selling him?
• Where did you purchase the horse?
• Has the horse ever colicked and if so what type of colic?
• Has the horse ever foundered?
• Does the horse have any chronic medical conditions? Does the horse need regular medication for any problems?
• Does the horse mind being de-wormed and is he on a regular de-worming schedule?
• Are the horse’s vaccinations current? What has he been vaccinated for?
• Do you have any records of his health?
• Does the horse have any stable vices such as cribbing or wood chewing?
• Does the horse get along with other horses in the pasture or while riding?
• Has the horse ever been shod? Does he mind the farrier working on his feet?
• Has the horse had a current Coggins Test?
• Does the horse require a special diet?
• When was the last time his teeth were floated?
• If the horse is a male, has he had is wolf teeth removed?
• How does the horse act on the trail? Is he barn sour and eager to get back to his stall?
• Has the horse been ridden mainly indoors or outdoors? This is important if you ride indoors frequently as the horse may have to get used to riding inside or outside.
• Is the horse safe for children?
• How do you prepare the horse before riding him? Does he longe?
If there are any questions you can think of, ask them. The owner has to answer them to the best of their abilities. You may also want to have a notebook with you and write down the answers and date them. If you were to buy the horse and the horse does something that is different than what the owner answered, you have those answers documented should someone get hurt.
Don’t Skip the Pre-Purchase Exam
No matter how inexpensive or expensive the horse is, you will want to have the horse examined by a veterinarian. Veterinarians are not allowed to do a pre-purchase exam if they have performed services for either the seller or the buyer. This is to keep the pre-purchase exam as ethical as possible. The buyer and seller should decide on a veterinarian that neither the owner nor seller have previously used. Call the vet ahead of time to schedule the appointment and to get the cost of the exam. It is the buyer’s responsibility to pay for the vet check.
It also does not matter what age the horse is. A vet will be able to tell you if the horse has the beginnings of any conditions that may limit the horse’s future performance. For example, if you are buying a two-year-old colt or filly, the vet will be able to X-ray the legs and ensure that the knees have fused. Horses of this age may also show the beginnings of degenerative arthritis that will keep you from riding and training the horse. No matter how much you like a horse, you do not want to buy a horse that is only going to cost you more money in upkeep and feed in the long run, especially if you are not going to be able to get any enjoyment out of them.
The vet will provide a written report for you on the horse’s condition. The vet will do blood tests, musculoskeletal tests, they will put them through their paces, check lungs and heart and respiration. They will check virtually every area of the horse. Should the vet find a flaw, ask the vet if the flaw will affect the horse’s future and life later. The vet will also be able to tell you whether or not the horse is suitable for what you want to use him for. The teeth will also be checked and the horse will be aged. You will be able to compare the vet’s findings to what the owner has stated.
This exam is even more important if you are buying the horse to add to your breeding stock. The vet will do a reproductive soundness test on both mares and stallions. If you are purchasing a stallion for breeding purposes then you should have a semen exam and collection done. The vet will be able to find any conditions the horse may have that may prohibit him from performing well in the breeding shed. They will also do sperm counts and tell you whether or not the horse will be able to reproduce. On mares, the vet will check for reproductive confirmation and will tell you if the mare will be prone to problems such as urine pooling which may cause uterine infections. You will also be able to find out if the mare has any bacterial infections of the uterus. If it is in the spring, the vet should be able to tell you what part of the cycle the mare is in.
Listen to the vet intently. Although the vet will issue a written report, you may be able to pick up enough information that will help you make your decision immediately. If you feel that the horse is right for you and that you are going to buy him, go ahead and have the vet perform a Coggins test as well as update the horse’s vaccinations before you take the horse home.
Do Prepare a Contract
There are too many circumstances in the horse business that a horse is sold without a proper contract being drawn up. There are a lot of details that cannot necessarily be pinned down in the sale of a horse. You can avoid many problems by drawing up a simple contract that states an individual’s responsibilities.
A sales contract can protect both the seller and the buyer. A sales contract can protect a seller from future claims by a buyer if the horse is sold “as is” and the contract includes a disclaimer that states the seller does not guarantee the future performance or soundness of a horse. If the contract requires the seller to disclose all existing defects of the horse, then the buyer has the right to expect that from the seller. For example, if you sell a horse that has a history of colic and you sell him without disclosing that, then the seller could be liable to the buyer.
It is up to the buyer to full investigate the horse they are buying. In many situations, you are able to control the information that the seller has a legal obligation to disclose. Take another person with you as a legal witness and jot down all answers the seller gives you. Don’t skip the pre-purchase exam and include the findings in the contract. By omitting a pre-purchase exam, you are waiving any warranties of the horse’s health and soundness.
Should you have to get involved in a lawsuit, your contract and your notes will be able to back you up as a buyer. If a buyer is able to prove in a lawsuit that the seller did not disclose information that they were obliged to, the liability could extend beyond a full refund for the purchase price of the horse to including the buyer’s expense in purchasing and keeping the horse.
If the horse injures the buyer or someone else through an undisclosed bad habit, such as rearing, the seller may be responsible for those personal injuries if the habit exceeds the boundaries of normally accepted “dangerous” or unpredictable behavior. The liability is even higher if the rider has disclosed himself or herself as a novice or beginning rider or if the buyer told the seller that the horse was intended for a child. Should these events happen your notes, witnesses and contract, as a buyer these will help you to prove negligence by the seller. It is not wise to go buy a horse for the intent of suing the seller, but you should have your bases covered should something happen to you or visitors to your barn.
In writing your contract, you will also want to consider your state’s laws on equines. The state may allow additional inclusions in the contract that will help protect both the buyer and the seller. It is also important that both the buyer and the seller understand that horse’s are dangerous and are capable of unexpected behaviors that may cause injury or death, this fact should also be considered in the writing of your contract.
Hope this helps you re-consider a few things you were thinking about. I published this a couple years ago but thought it to be time to re-hash it.
Stop by the forum and say hello if you get a chance.
Thanks again friends
Your horse's health is important!
To keep your horse in good health, it's a good idea to get into a routine of doing a daily health check. Don't worry—a good health check takes just a few minutes! In order for it to be meaningful, however, it's important that you know the signs of a healthy horse, as well as the signs of an unhealthy horse. Go down this checklist every day, and keep your horse in tip-top shape!
• How is your horse standing? Horses who are relaxing often stand with their heads down and one hind leg resting. This is a completely normal posture! However, if your horse is standing in his pasture or stall with a front leg resting, further investigation is probably needed. Trot your horse out to see if you see any signs of lameness. If you aren't sure, call your vet and have him do an evaluation. As a general rule, horses don't stand with their front legs resting.
• What is his expression? You can often tell if your horse is feeling under the weather just by looking at his expression. You see your horse every day, and you know what to expect. If your normally alert, curious, ears-forward horse is hanging his head with dull eyes, then he probably doesn't feel well. Watch him carefully, and if his expression doesn't improve, call the vet.
• How is your horse lying? All horse lie down sometimes. Sometimes it is to rest, and other times it is just to bask in the sun. If your horse is sunning himself with other horses peacefully in his pasture, then leave him be. Chances are, he's just enjoying some down time. And while every horse enjoys a good roll now and then, if your horse rolls repeatedly and seems agitated or restless, it's possible he has a tummy ache. Restless, agitated rolling is a sign of colic, so if he doesn't stop within a few minutes and resume normal behavior, call your vet.
• Check your horse's legs. This is a good thing to do every day, even if you haven't ridden your horse. Horses can injure themselves just about anywhere, including their pastures and their stalls. Run your hands down each leg, looking for wounds, heat, bumps, and swelling. It may take a while, but at some point you should know the difference between your horse's normal leg temperature and an elevated temperature. If you notice anything abnormal, trot your horse out and look for signs of lameness. If your horse seems stiff, limps, or bobs his head when he moves, call your vet.
• Check his appetite. Most horses love to eat! If your horse falls into this category, you'll know something is wrong if he leaves his food alone. A horse who isn't feeling well may lose his appetite, and may also stop drinking. If you notice that your horse's eating patterns are off, observe him for a few feedings. If he doesn't regain his appetite, call he vet.
• Check your horse's manure. Your horse's manure is a good sign of his health. You most likely know what normal manure looks like. The balls are well formed but easy to break in half. If the balls seem extremely dry or hard, suspect that your horse is not drinking enough water. Loose manure can mean a couple things. Either your horse is eating a diet that is too rich for him, or he has some sort of bug that is giving him diarrhea. And always look for worms. Worms in your horses manure mean that he is carrying dangerous, sometimes even deadly, parasites. Time for a deworming!
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Saturday, May 2, 2009
Buying a horse, whether it is your first or your tenth, is a big decision and one that you should make well educated. These fifteen tips will tell you what to look for and what to avoid:
Don’t Shop with Your Heart?
This is one of the most important tips that you need to consider. Purchasing your first horse with your heart is sure to lead to trouble. Remember that you are picking a partner that will be with you for life, or so you hope. This horse may be your teacher and your mentor in all things equestrian, so you want to be sure that you are making a first good decision. Don’t look for the pretty face, but look for the disposition and the attitude that fits you.
Women, especially, tend to have trouble with this concept. Women would buy every horse, pony or mule that looked like it needed a good home. Women have been taught to work from their hearts and to reach out to those in need of good care taking. In buying horses, however, this is not necessarily a good thing. You don’t have enough pasture or stalls to bring them all home with you, so you need to be sure that your decision is a good one. A good horse trader can see your heart glowing as you drive your truck up to the barn and for women, it is hard to hide it. A good horse trader can see you coming!
For men, they don’t necessarily shop with their heart, but they want their ladies to be happy. They will seriously consider buying a horse that a wife or girlfriend has fallen head over heels for despite the fact that the horse might not be a good mount for them.
Don’t fall for the cute faces, many a horse trainer can tell you that there may be a lot of bad attitude and disposition hiding behind those cute faces. Yes, even the cutest horses can be the hardest to handle and train. The horse that you often fall in love with first should be just a crush and you should seriously think about whether a long-term relationship will work out with that horse or not.
Be practical and unemotional when your looking at horses. In fact, you are better off acting like you really don’t care for the horse all that much and act as though you are straddling the fence on a decision. This will keep the salesman’s sales talk to a minimum because they won’t be able to read you very well, even if your heart is pounding in your chest and you really like the horse. This will keep you from getting talked into a bad purchase.
The bottom line is this. Will you ever see a horse that you really just don’t like? All horse enthusiasts know that there is a special place in your heart for even the ugliest horse because they can be so ugly that they’re cute.
Don’t Consider Inappropriate Horses
When deciding on a horse you first need to consider your situation and your goals. How experienced are you? Have you been taking riding lessons for a few months and you really enjoy it so you want your own horse? Have you been breaking colts since you were thirteen and you’re ready for a new project? How much are you willing to spend on the horse, training, etc? All of these factors play a major role in deciding on a horse.
If you are new to riding or you have a year of riding lessons under your belt, what level would you consider yourself? Beginner, Intermediate or Advanced? If you are in the beginner or intermediate category, you are going to want to avoid any horse that has been described as “green” or “in need of an advanced rider.” For you, these horses only spell danger. What exactly does “green” mean anyway? There are some horse sellers or traders that refer to a “green” horse as one that has about thirty days of riding on him. He knows how to turn, walk, trot and lope and that is about it. This is probably a good definition of “green,” however, there are those sellers and traders that call a horse that is barely halter broke “green.” This basically means that you are going to have to start from scratch, because they probably haven’t been halter broke right, nor do they tie properly and they may not even get in a trailer. This horse may even be too dangerous for a rider that considers himself or herself advanced.
In your shopping, you might as well just knock out any advertisement that has “green” or “prospect” in it. These horses are not going to be for a rider who wants to ride. These horses are for riders who want to train and then ride, or for a rider who is willing to put forth the money to have the horse properly trained. If you are looking to be able to ride as soon as you get your new horse home, you will want to avoid these horses. There is no consistency in the horse business lingo and as a horse buyer; you are better off not getting yourself caught up in these circumstances.
Instead, define the perfect horse for you. Perhaps he has been over a few jumps or won a few blue ribbons. He might even be a fifteen-year-old gelding that has been ridden on so many trails; he could bring you back home with you asleep. If you are a beginning rider and you feel you need a well experienced mount, then that is the type of horse that you should begin looking for. If you aspire to be a dressage rider, don’t buy a cutting horse. It is possible to retrain horses, but are you willing to spend the time and the money to do it?
Many men may find it tempting to buy a “green” horse because they are able to manhandle the horse and make it do what he wants. They may be able to jump on, kick the horse into high gear and slam the breaks. Just because you are able to make the horse do what you want, does not mean that the horse is appropriate for your wife, girlfriends, children or friends. If you have a family and you are buying your first horse or an additional horse, then you will want to ensure that the horse is safe for you and your family. This goes beyond riding but in everyday handling and feeding as well.
Don’t Get Caught Up in the Hype-Stick to Your Type
No matter how hard the trainer or horse trader tries to sell you a horse, don’t get caught up in the hype. They will give you a hard sales pitch and they will tell you how much potential this horse has or what he has already achieved. They will tell you what the horse’s mother did and what his daddy did and what his granddaddy did and they will go on and on. Before you know it, you will be having visions of yourself turning reining spins and sliding stops or jumping over six foot fences. Don’t let this skew the type of horse that you have in mind, no matter how impressive the horse sounds.
If you do want to rein, then by all means look at reining horses. Just be sure that they are at a level that you can ride and be successful on. Don’t get on a young horse that has just learned to stop and expect to be running a whole pattern on him. If you are new to the discipline, then you need a good teacher and one that already knows what is going on in the ring. An older horse that has been trained right will be the best bet.
If you show up to a barn to see a horse that you want to be a jumper, but it turns out that he is a western pleasure mount, don’t change your type just because the horse is good looking. They will all be good looking! Instead, tell the salesman that he doesn’t exactly fit your type and your goals, they will understand. Ask them if they have a horse that you can look at that will better fit what you have in mind.
If you are interested in barrel racing, but all the girls at your barn have started to show halter, don’t change your type and goals just because that is what everyone else is doing. There are many fads in the horse industry from different types of show halters to show clothes and saddles. Stick to your guns and follow your plans and goals and don’t let others stray you. You will be a lot happier in the long run when you are achieving your goals and the kids at the barn are still changing with the fads.
This tip also goes back to not buying with your heart but your brain. Look for those horses that are experienced and can help you achieve your riding goals rather than hold you back. Young horses may very well turn out to be great barrel racers, jumpers or pleasure horses, but you should be learning while someone else is training. An experienced horse will help you reach your goals more quickly, so don’t follow the hype and stick to your type.
Do Exhibit Proper Barn Etiquette When At the Seller’s Barn or Home
No matter where you are, you should always be cordial and polite when visiting another person’s barn or home. Buyers should show up at the seller’s barn or farm at an agreed upon time, especially if the horse is at a boarding stable and both the buyer and seller are driving to the location. Try to call on a cell phone when you are about 10 minutes away from arrival. If you are running late, definitely call the seller and let them know. Avoid catching the seller while he is still preparing the horse for your visit by being there very early, unless you have called the seller. Give the seller time to prepare the horse; they will want to groom them and have them ready to be shown off.
When you arrive, try to find out as much information as possible, but avoid giving the seller your equine life story. You are not trying to impress the seller with your stories, accomplishments or affiliations. Trying out the horse is also not the time to prove anything. Avoid schooling the horse as much as possible, if the horse does not respond to your cues and aids then make a mental note. While the seller is riding the horse, do not offer your opinion of their riding style or skills, as it is inappropriate.
Sellers should be diplomatic in the process as well. If you are trying out a horse and make an attempt at a flying lead change, but it doesn’t come off quite as well as you would like, the seller should keep their comments to themselves. They do not know your riding level, but they do know the horse’s training level. If the horse cannot do a flying lead change, then the seller should let you know that the horse has not yet learned those skills. They should not comment on your skills because for all they know you are a Grand Prix rider and the horse just didn’t respond well to your cues. The seller may also try to flatter you, but that can backfire as well.
As a buyer, it is inappropriate to give the seller an indication of your intentions. You don’t need to give extensive details but let the seller know that the horse is nice and you will consider it. If you like the horse and you are considering, you might say, “I think the horse is nice. Would you mind if I came back and rode him a second time?”
Try not to give the seller your opinion of the horse. Sometimes the seller will ask for an opinion, but you don’t want to start listing the flaws of a horse. Comment on the positive aspects of the horse and let the buyer know that you will keep him in mind.
Also, when visiting a barn remember your manners. Shut gates behind you, shake hands, pet the dog, etc. Be nice and cordial. Take the extra ten or fifteen minutes to chat and get to know the seller, they may have another horse that you are interested in and didn’t know it was for sale as well or they may have a friend that has a horse that is better suited for you.
Don’t Ride a Horse that Has Not Been Ridden By Someone Else First
You should never buy a horse without riding it first, however, do not ever ride a horse that has not been ridden by someone else first. If you are looking at a young colt that is unbroken, then that is different, but if the horse is supposed to be trained to a certain level, you should ask to see someone make him perform. The best person to ride the horse would be the current owner. The horse is going to show his true self when the owner is riding him. If he is a little barn sour, that behavior will come out in the ride. If he doesn’t respond well to aids, then you will notice that behavior as well.
If you go to see a horse and the owner will not ride the horse for you, then you should probably just leave. You don’t want to chance it with a horse that the rider won’t even ride. Trainers do not always give you a clear picture either because horses will act differently depending on who is riding them. The horse may recognize that the trainer is riding him and he may be a perfect gentleman, then when you get home, he is a complete wreck. This is because the horse has been taught to adjust differently to different people.
Before riding an unknown horse ensure that you are safe first. Even if you have never rode with a helmet in your life, this is the time to do it. Do not risk your health and safety on a horse that you don’t know. For all you know, as soon as you sit in the saddle the horse may turn into the wildest bronc you have ever seen. If you eat dirt, you will be happy that you were wearing a helmet. English riders should definitely wear a helmet and if you are going to be jumping, you may consider a vest as well. You can never be too safe when trying out a jumper for the first time. If the horse does turn into a bronc, then you will not have as much to hold on to and you will be better protected if you take a fall.
Check with your state on any state equestrian laws. These laws will tell you what you need to ask an owner before purchasing or riding a horse. If the owner is negligent and you get hurt, then you may have cause for a suite. This is especially true if you ask the owner blatantly and outright if the horse has a history of bucking, biting, kicking, etc. Most horsemen will already have knowledge of your state’s laws, but it is important that you understand them as well. Also, if the owner has you sign a waiver, it does not necessarily mean that the horse is unsafe, but that they are trying to protect themselves should something happen to you.
Before mounting, check that the girth is tight and that the reins and bridle are in good repair. If you are riding English, make sure that the stirrup leathers are well-oiled as well. You do not want to have any accidents if they can be prevented first.
Do Make Sure that the Horse is Not On Medications
This one can be hard to ascertain, especially for a new horse owner that has not been around many horses that are on medication. The best you can do is look the seller straight in the eye and ask, “Is this horse on any medication today?” “Is this horse ever medicated, when and why?” Look for any eye shifting and any body language that may lead you to believe that the horse may be on medication. Along with this question, ask the seller what they have done to prepare the horse for your try-out today.
Legally, sellers are required to answer these truthfully and directly. Not telling you answers to specific questions may be considered negligence should you buy the horse and you have an accident. Depending on the laws in your state, you may have a course of action that you can take should the owner not answer you truthfully. The owner is especially putting you in a dangerous situation by giving a horse medication and allowing someone unknowingly to ride it. The horse may come out of his sedation at any moment and where would you be? If you have any reason to suspect that a horse is on a sedative, do not ride the horse. You are better off getting back in your truck and driving on down the road.
This is one reason to have a pre-purchase exam before buying a horse. A veterinarian will be able to do blood samples and ascertain if the horse has been on any drugs or medications. Medications can be used in horses for various reasons. The horse may be high-strung and hyperactive, so the owner may have given the horse a sedative. The horse may also be on a painkiller to cover up lameness issues or some other problem.
Acepromazine or “Ace” is one of the most commonly used sedatives in horses. Ace causes the horse to have a lower blood pressure is often prescribed to treat the early stages of laminitis. Ace takes approximately thirty minutes to an hour to take effect. The effects may last from one to four hours. This gives you a guideline to go by in the event that you feel the horse is under a sedative. Ace is also prohibited in most competitions and repeated dosing may increase detection time in horses. A horse that is sedated may appear uninterested in his surroundings and will not be interested in you or what is going on. They may also be slow and unsteady in gait.
Before riding a horse, you will also want to ensure that the horse also not dehydrated. Dehydration may be used as a means of slowing down a horse and may be used in conjunction with medications. Sellers have been known to purposefully dehydrate horses so that they are slower and more lethargic. You can check for dehydration by pinching the skin of the horse. If the skin snaps back quickly, the horse is not dehydrated. If the skin does not snap, the horse may be dehydrated.
Part 2 Coming Soon EquestrianHorseForum Check us out
Saturday, March 28, 2009
As spring approaches, so comes foaling season. The reward for waiting 340 excruciating days is the safe, smooth delivery of a happy, healthy foal. When something goes wrong it can be devastating, and seemingly small problems can quickly become life threatening to both the mare and foal. Careful preparation and planning can go a long way to ensuring the safest possible foaling event, and can prevent potentially fatal complications.
Know Your Foaling Date
This seems simple, but unlike most other species, the gestation for a foal can vary quite a bit. The average gestation of a mare is 340 days, or roughly 11 months and 11 days. Unfortunately, in practice, healthy, normal gestation can be as little as 320 days, and as much as 370 days (longer than a year!). Foals born earlier than 320 days are considered premature and require special care, and often hospitalization. Foals born less than 300 days are extremely premature, and have almost no chance for survival.
Foaling, or parturition, is an explosive and rapid event, and in perfect situations requires no human involvement. However, when complications occur, immediate human intervention is necessary to avoid potentially fatal complications. In most cases, foaling should be an event closely monitored, with attendants ready to step in and offer assistance to the mare at the first sign of trouble.
Unfortunately, most horses foal at night, necessitating at least one, and usually quite a few all-night vigils to catch the blessed event. Knowing your foaling date will help you to plan your stable sleep-overs.
While it is hard to predict when in the due-date range your mare may foal, careful attention to detail may help to narrow the time down. Mares tend to foal around the same time of gestation yearly, so if you have a mare that has tended to foal at a certain amount of days in the past, chances are that she will follow that trend again. Maiden mares are the exception to this rule, and often maiden mares will follow a completely different schedule from their first foaling than any during any subsequent pregnancies.
Have a Foaling Kit Ready
A well-stocked foaling kit should be prepared at least a month before your mares due date. This kit includes items that you will use during foaling (disinfectants, etc) to items that you hope not to use, but stock anyway “just in case”. Make sure to keep your kit in a clean, waterproof box near your mare’s stall, readily accessible when the time is right.
The basic foaling kit should include:
* A flashlight with extra batteries
* Sterile string (such as umbilical tape) to tie off umbilical cord, and tie up placenta as it is being expelled from the mare
* Iodine (for the umbilical cord)
* Mild soap and a bucket (for washing the mares vulva and teats)
* Vetwrap and bandaging material (for tieing up the mares tail)
* Extra towels and gloves
* Enemas (for the foal after birth)
Other items that should be readily available for foaling include a halter and lead rope, twitch, a watch, paper and pen, surgical lube and a charged phone with good connectivity.
Plan Your Exit Strategy
The best preparation you can make for foaling is to be intimately familiar with the process, so that you are quickly able to determine when parturition isn’t proceeding normally, and can summon help. As foaling nears, talk to your veterinarian about possible scenarios, and make sure he or she will be available and on call for you if problems do occur during foaling. If necessary, talk to other vets in the area in advance of the foaling date, and ensure sure you have a support network in place when the time arrives.
If you have a truck and trailer, have them hooked up and fill the gas tank. If an emergency trip to the hospital becomes a necessity, having the trailer ready to go can save valuable minutes. If you do not own a trailer, talk to friends and try to come up with a plan so that if the worst scenario occurs, you are prepared. In some situations, it may be necessary to talk to commercial hauling companies to ensure that your mare and foal will have an emergency ride to the equine hospital if it becomes a necessity.
The old adage about getting things ready so you won’t need them never applied so well as it does to foaling. We hope and pray for the best case scenario, and a trouble-free foaling, but planning for the worst can to provide the best possible outcome if it actually happens. Your careful preparations can make the difference between life and death of both the mare and foal during parturition.
Interested in horses? Stop by our award winning horse forum at EquestrianHorseForum and lets talk some more about foaling and horse related topics.
We will leave the lights on!
Thursday, March 19, 2009
Traveling with your horse can be a wonderful experience, whether you’re like Me and you putt to your friend’s house for a short trail ride every couple weeks or you trailer throughout the country for clinics and shows like Karen who tries to attend several every month.
A frequent traveler, was in the process of trailering her horse to a clinic when a tire on her trailer went flat. She missed her clinic ride and showed up late.
“Didn’t I tell you your tire was low last month at the clinic?” her friend chided. Karen recalled then, but she had been traveling.
Karen and her horse are very lucky that a flat tire and missing a clinic was the least of their worries. Lack of trailer maintenance can be deadly to your horse as evidenced by a accidents you read about, like on Long Island when a trailer became detached from its tow vehicle, crossed into oncoming traffic and was hit by an SUV. One of the two horses was killed. Rescue teams were visibly upset by the sight as well as their inability to help the injured and dead horses. Members of the horse community wonder about the cause, was at improperly fit hitch? Where were the safety chains?
Experts agree that there are several key problems in trailer maintenance that can lead to a tragic result including improper hitching, lack of safety chains or rotten floor boards, which can cause a horse to fall through the trailer while being towed.
USRider, a roadside assistance and towing provider, is currently gathering data on horse trailer accidents to devise recommendations for preventing accidents. By August, 2006, more than 200 accidents had been evaluated, and the company was seeking input from horse owners, rescue workers, towing operators, veterinarians, and others.
Tomas Gimenez, professor of Animal and Veterinary Sciences at Clemson University, is assisting in the data analysis and noted that “the data showed that the main causes of trailer wrecks are lack of proper maintenance, operator error and equipment mismatch.”
The Rutgers Cooperative Extension prepared a horse trailering and maintenance fact sheet published by the National Ag Safety Database and includes recommendations on routine item maintenance checks on tire pressure and condition, including spares; jacks and reflectors; floorboards; screws or nails that work loose to protrude inside the trailer; lights; hitch welds; safety chain welds and snaps; hitch ball greasing; wheel chocks. Additionally, a yearly maintenance check is in order for the cracks in the frame, loose connections in wires, rusted metal, greasing of all hinges, weak hinges, wheel bearings, spring shackles, brakes, emergency break-away cable and control box.
Based on USRider’s survey data to date, operator error, especially driving too fast, caused the majority of the accidents. The group recommends driving under the speed limit and maintaining double the distance from the car in front than is recommended for passenger cars. The survey group also noted that maintenance checks are imperative on both the tow vehicle and the trailer. Additionally, with rotten floor boards, horses can fall through the trailer. The group also recommends driving with headlights on to increase visibility to other drivers and applying reflective tape to the back of the trailer in case of electrical failure. The group also noted that improper hitching was a common cause of accidents. USRider recommends ensuring that the hitch is properly installed, is the right type, rating and size for the coupler. Trailers can become detached from the towing vehicle, so securely fastened safety chains and breakaway switch are in order.
In case of emergency, have the following items stored in your trailer: equine first aid kit; spare tire, jack and iron (for both trailer and tow vehicle); emergency triangles; chocks; flashlight; electrical and duct tape; knife; water, hose, buckets and sponge; spare halters and leads; spare bulbs and fuses (for trailer and tow vehicle); fire extinguisher; jumper cables; took kit; spare belts and hoses; tow chain; air compressor; and emergency directions for rescue works who might need to attend horses if tow operator is incapacitated.
Traveling with your horse can be fun, but it can also be dangerous, if not tragic, if you do not conduct yearly and routine maintenance on your tow vehicles. Keep your vehicles in proper working order to protect your most valuable cargo.
We all know about these items but seems more often we will "get to it later" and later may be our last tow? Please do not overlook your inspections and maintanence. Keep yourself safe and those who are with and around you.
Peace unto you and yours,
Equineinternet.com <-- Coming real soon! New membership plan! Cheap!Don't sign up yet! Just wanted to let you know about it. 12 sites for the price of one! Yep just one!EquestrianHorseForum
Thursday, March 12, 2009
Whether you are a college student or just “horse poor” (or both), there comes a time when your horse budget isn’t always what you would like it to be. There are a lot of things you would like to buy for your horse or need for your horse, but right now you can barely afford to feed both of you. Don’t worry because there are many options that you can explore.
First, you might need to consider your current boarding situation. Depending on what part of the country you live in the cost of boarding is going to vary. Can you really afford full care boarding right now or are you going to have to start doing some of the work? Find out if your current boarding facility is willing to work with you. Will they allow you to do partial-care board at a reduced rate or pasture board? Will they let you help them in some of their daily duties and reduce your rent for your hard work? Is it time to move your horse? Look for smaller facilities that meet your needs, often they will have reduced rates than other barns. Would you be willing to feed somebody else’s horses for board? These options need to be researched and explored. I have been successful in running ads in the Thrifty Nickel newspaper stating, “Will feed or ride for boarding.” I currently board for free because I take care of a couple’s farm while they go out of town. It works well for both of us and I have been at this facility for two years now and have become great friends with the couple. Also, do you have friends or family that have land or other horses? Would they let you keep your horse there if you help them out? Most importantly, always get an agreement in writing. This helps in the fact that both parties know the terms of the agreement and if anything is to happen you have your agreement in writing.
Secondly, let’s look at your horse’s diet. You need to consider what type of work your horse is doing and what his energy requirements are. An adult horse only requires 8% crude protein diet and this can be provided from a 100% hay diet for maintenance on a horse that is lightly worked. A younger horse is going to require a 10-12% crude protein diet depending on whether or not he is in training and being rapidly grown or not. If you feed a balanced sweet feed with a good grass or alfalfa hay then you will be able to meet their energy requirements. If he seems to lose weight, gradually increase his feed a little more until he stops losing weight. He certainly does not require a fat added or high protein diet, unless he is doing intense work like roping, cutting or jumping. Most feed stores carry a basic sweet feed that is 10-14% crude protein for $5 to $6 a bag.
If you live in the West Texas or New Mexico area, you know that we are in a drought and hay prices have soared. Not to mention the cost of gas isn’t helping much either. You can hardly find a round bale of Coastal grass hay for less than $75 out here. I suggest finding a hay wholesaler where you can load the hay yourself out of the field or a barn for less than what you would pay at the feed store. If you have the space, stock up on as much as you can for a few months. This will be expensive initially but it is better than buying it a few bales at a time.
Shop around for farriers and see what they are charging for a hoof trim. If you are on a very tight budget, then you probably should have your horses shoes pulled. He will like being barefoot and you can still ride. Unless your horse has lameness problems and requires special shoes, it will be cheaper for you to pull his shoes and have him trimmed regularly.
Obviously there are going to be a few expenses that are just necessary. These include your regular vaccinations, deworming every six months and those unexpected expenses from injuries, illness, etc. Talk to your vet about doing your own vaccinations, this will save you an office charge and a trip with your horse to the vet. Most vaccinations are simple to give and your vet can instruct you on how to do them yourself. Keep your horse on a good deworming schedule; this will save you money in the long run.
If you can’t afford these basic maintenance expenses, then you should probably look into selling your horse or leasing him out. I have successfully kept my horse for about $150/month at boarding facilities through my tight college years. It can be done on a tight budget and you will not believe how many people will be willing to help you. You just might have to do things a little unconventionally, but that’s okay because it will all work out in the long run.
If you are a horse lover like we are please visit our Award winning EquestrianHorseForum and if you have horses for sale our 12 site classified network is almost finished! How exciting make sure to bookmark it at horsechitchat
Have a great ride and make sure you stop by and say hello. We will leave the barn door open for you!
Wednesday, March 4, 2009
Long-distance riding, which focuses on the horse's physical fitness, is one of the horse world's fastest growing divisions. Rides can be different lengths, but some rides go 100 miles in a day, and some even extend over several days! To say that long-distance riding is gruelling and challenging is an understatement indeed!
The distance riding horse must go long distances on varied terrain, and the concussion to his feet is prolonged and intense. To this end, safety and comfort should always be the first consideration when shoeing a horse who goes the distance. This will cut down on early fatigue. Your farrier can ensure that your horse's shoes fit correctly according to his conformation, and are comfortable and balanced. Some people use full sole pads under the shoes. The advantage of these is that they protect against bruising and other injuries from rocks, stones, etc. The disadvantage is that pads will cause the sole to soften over time.
There are a few types of shoes in particular that are attractive to owners of distance horses. A popular choice is wide-webbed aluminum shoes. These disperse the concussive effect, are light, and wear well. Some even come with steel inserts in the toes to prolong wear.
What is the job of a driving horse? To pull weight, of course! Whether you are using your horse on your farm, or whether he is followed by a fancy show carriage, it all boils down to the same thing. Your horse is pulling a load!
Since driving horses usually work at relatively slow speeds, interference isn't usually an issue. To that end a plain stamped shoe without any fullering or groove through the metal allows for the most wear. Since the driving horse usually sees the most wear on the toes of the hind shoe, this is usually thickened. The hind shoe is also fitted with a toe clip for more wear.
In order to do his job right, the racehorse must have the right conformation for racing. To this end it's always a good idea to find a farrier who has lots of experience monitoring and trimming the feet of racehorses. Obviously, the shoeing should be designed so that the horse can perform at his highest speed. Light, correctly fitting shoes are sensible. Since the horse isn't carrying too much extra weight on his feet he won't tire as easily as he would wearing heavier shoes. A horse who tires will most likely have some interference, which can cause injury, especially in a horse moving at such high speeds. Front shoes are generally fitted according to the shape of the foot, while three-quarter rear shoes ensure that brushing is prevented.
In addition, how a horse is shod will have a lot to do on the surface he is racing on. In wet conditions, for example, the hind shoes might be removed to prevent the horse from over-reaching. Again, the importance of having a farrier who knows a bit about racing can't be stated enough!
The goal of the show horse is to jump as high and as fast as possible. Horses place a lot of stress on their feet, joints, and tendons on both the take-off and landing. Your farrier should trim your horse's feet to make up for any conformation issues, and a shoe should be applied that provides maximum cover on the ground surface. Shoes with short toes and good support at the heels are extremely important to the show jumping horse.
So make sure you talk with your farrier and make sure that you address your horses specific needs and listen when he/she gives you some advice on what you can do to help your horses feet.
Take care and happy trails, we would like to see you at our award winning horse forum. Make sure to bookmark it as soon as you arrive, we will leave the barn door open.
Saturday, February 7, 2009
Has buying a horse got you confused? If your are looking to compare apples to apples—er, Quarter horses to Quarter horses, I mean—then there are a few things you must consider with each and every horse you look at. Here's the list:
• Temperament. A horse's temperament is extremely important to your overall experience. If you are a beginning rider, temperament is probably the most important factor when it comes to choosing a horse. A horse of good temperament is alert and ready to work, but also calm and willing.
• Manners. Manners are extremely important! They can mean the difference between a horse being easy to live with, and a horse being not-so-easy to live with! When looking at horses for sale and horses for sale, make sure you watch their behavior as they are being caught, handled, and ridden. And keep in mind that just like with us humans, bad habits can be hard to break!
• Soundness. If you are planning on riding your horse, working soundness is key. This means that the horse should not have any lamenesses that prevents the horse from moving correctly and therefore succeeding at its intended purpose. Horses who aren't being ridden need to be checked for soundness depending upon what you are planning on using them for. For example, if you are looking for a broodmare, a breeding unsoundness would prevent the mare from having a foal. However, that same mare may be a great family riding horse!
• Movement. Good riding horses
should move smoothly and in balance, without stiffness, crookedness, or interference. When looking at younger horses, keep in mind that some of a horse's gait is determined by training. If you have questions about a horse's gait, it always helps to get an experienced horse person to look at the horse and give you his opinion. Is the horse's way of going inherent, or is it something that can be improved with a little training? Be sure you watch the horse at all three gaits. If you ride the horse, is the horse comfortable? If you are a beginning rider, comfort is very important!
• Conformation. The way a horse is built will determine how a horse moves. It goes without saying that the horse shouldn't have any glaring conformational faults that affect its way of going. Aside from that, the conformation of the horse should be suitable for the manner in which you intend to use him. If you are not educated when it comes to horse conformation, take someone along who is.
• Health. How healthy is the horse you are looking at? Ask to see the horse's health records, to determine if their is anything long-standing, recurring, or permanent that would have to be dealt with. Temporary health issues can be easier to deal with and you may even get your horse at a discount price as a result. However, do remember that if you intend to buy a horse and then nurse him back to health, there's a good chance you'll have to spend time and money that you wouldn't have spent on a healthier horse.
• Accomplishments. What has your horse done in the past? This may be a very important consideration if you are looking for a horse to show you the ropes; on the other hand, it may not be a consideration at all if you intend to train the horse yourself.
• Size. In the world of horses, size does matter! It is important that your horse fits you. As a general rule of thumb, bigger horses are more desirable because they can accommodate a wider range of riders. If you are looking at a smaller horse make sure your legs can fall in the right position. In other words, your heel should not be below the horse's underline. If you are not certain, ask someone else how you look on the horse.
There sure is a lot to consider when looking at horses for sale and selecting the right horse. However, it's important to know that careful selection will result in years of enjoyment. Take your time!
Wednesday, February 4, 2009
The key to this situation is finding out the core of the problem. Why does your horse rear back when he is tied? Many horses know that this is a way of getting out of work, while other horses may be reacting out of fear. When you tie your horse, you are taking away his ability of flight. Horses are innate fight or flight animals and the majority of them prefer to fly. Many people have used numerous tricks to keep their horses from breaking their equipment. From stronger lead ropes to bungee cords, people have tied their horses up and try to make them “get used to it.” Everything is more frightening to a horse when they are tied up, from sneezes to phone calls, just about anything will set these horses off. They are often usually leery of being tied up from bad experiences as colts or they may have never been taught to yield to pressure or how to tie properly.
Many horses that rear back have never really been halter broke and may have never really learned about responding to pressure properly. Many people will halter their colts and figure the colt is halter broke because they follow them around like puppies. This is not necessarily the case, the first time that colt feels pressure on his head, he is going to have a fit and rear back. You will first want to begin by teaching the horse to respond to light pressure from the halter. You want them to learn to follow a feel. You will begin by applying slight pressure to the halter from the lead rope, the instant the horse reacts you will give him slack. You don’t want to pull strongly on the halter as this will only result in a brace and lean from the horse. You just want the horse to learn to follow a feel and teach him that his reaction does not have to be dramatic.
The key is to teach your horse to be confident, work with him and apply pressure in a variety of ways. You may also want to begin teaching your horse to tie by standing still and not tied to anything at all. If you are afraid the horse is going to wonder off, just loop your lead rope around your fence pole once. This will supply enough pressure to keep him in one place, but if he feels the need to rear back he won’t meet any resistance. This will also keep you from having to buy a new halter.
As your horse gains confidence, you will start exposing him to new situations and activities, but always allow him to feel as if he can come and go as he pleases. This will allow him to approach things that he is curious about without having to commit. Soon, the horse will become used to a lot of new sounds and objects and very few things will excite him or scare him.
Thanks for taking the time to read my rant! I hope you will stop by our growing revamped equine network
Happy Trails and Training
Tuesday, January 13, 2009
No, it’s not what you think- I don’t have a young child who I want to protect from pornography sites or Internet predators. I need parental controls for ME. I need a program designed to block me every time I surf on over to HorseChitChat, “just to look”. Something that will prevent me from being able to browse the rescue websites, ripe with statements like “these broodmares must be rescued in three days or they will go to slaughter!”
You see, I’m a sucker. I don’t fall for pyramid schemes, and I never buy anything unless I know what it costs, what it should cost, and what it costs at three other places. But when it comes to horses, I am weak.
It all started about 10 years ago, when I innocently started looking at horse rescues in my area. I already had a perfectly nice, sound, competitive horse at the time- but I was bored, and wanted a project. It seemed simple enough- rescue a nice horse that is going to be killed, put some time and training on it, sell it to a good home, and rescue another one.
Simple, right? It sounded like a good plan to me, so I found a flashy bay Thoroughbred type mare that was going to slaughter, and brought her home. She was three, and not even broke to the halter, but she was cute and athletic, and had lots of potential. In the beginning, things went OK. She was headstrong, but smart, and within about 6 months she was broke to ride and going like an average young horse, but with a few more surprises in store.
She had a way of making you think that you were totally in control and everything was going great- until she changed her mind, and left you sitting in mid air, wondering where the horse that was just under you had gone. She was difficult to read, and when she was good, you never trusted it completely, and waited for the other shoe to drop.
After a good foundation in dressage, we started doing some small jumping, and she showed a natural talent, and looked to be a nice little amateur hunter. But despite continued training, lessons, clinics, she still had the tendency to be unpredictable. Ok, looking back, I now see that she was often really, really bad… but the times when she was good, she was so very good that she could string you along, and I put up with the many bad times for those few times when she showed such promise. I kept thinking she would grow out of it…
Throughout this time, she began showing signs of foot soreness- subtle at first, and easily controlled with shoeing. We started to show a bit, and while we didn’t win any championships, we didn’t embarrass ourselves either. She’d have a bout of lameness, we’d take a few weeks off for shoeing changes, injections or whatever else seemed to help for a short time. Then she’d come back for a few weeks, get ready to show again- and go lame again.
This continued for about 4 years, until the lameness began getting worse, and the riding times were well shorter than the lame times. She hadn’t grown out of her bouts of temper tantrums or occasional bad behavior- if anything, they got worse the older she got.
At this point, I had put so much money into training and vet care, and so much of myself into bringing her along, that I was devastated. I found a pasture where she could live, and turned her out- and she’s never been happier.
As for myself, despite my experience with this mare, I’ve fallen for the same “scheme” of horses a few more times since. A lovely mare with an injury, who just needed a place to recuperate for a while before she was going to be a great show prospect… that one keeps the first mare company in the pasture. And another, a gelding rescued as a weanling who required several surgeries to fix the infirmities inherited to him by poor genetics- the jury is still out on him, but I’m not holding my breath… oh well, I guess the mares won’t mind a gelding to keep them company.
Yes, I need parental controls on my computer. Something that will never let me look at another picture of a horse headed to slaughter, or one that has been abandoned and needs just “one surgery to be 100%”. I can’t look- and if I do, I’ll bring it home- and there is definitely no room at this inn. Despite the best intentions, lots of hard work, and too much money, all I’ve got to show for it are three very happy, fat pasture ornaments, who I am sure will live with me forever, blissfully ignorant of my now-antiquated desire to save their lives, then find them good homes.
And my original horse, the one I was bored with when I decided to get my first rescue? Yep, he’s still going. I have to have at least one to ride, don’t I?
I also have a big issue with horse forums they are such a great to talk about horses and get answers to any questions I may have. The problem lies with how many hours I spend on them! Especially when they are as friendly as horsechitchat's forum.
Well enough for now I have to go look at some horses! :)
Tuesday, January 6, 2009
Begin by standing your horse up squarely. If he won’t cooperate have someone else assist you with either the holding or the measuring. If you don’t have help have him tied up and try to get him to stand as square as possible.
Stand on your horse’s left and place the end of your measuring tape in your left hand and place it where the horse’s neck meets the center of his chest. With your right hand, draw the tape along the side as far as you can. Be sure that the tape crosses the widest part of his shoulder. If you measure too low then the chest blanket will be too small. The tape needs to be level and taut as well or you will end up adding extra inches and end up with a blanket that is too long lengthwise.
Once you have reached as far as you can, hold your thumb on that spot of the horse and note your measurement. Then measure from your thumb across the point of his hindquarters, about 10 or 12 inches below where the horse’s tail meets the body. Note your measurement at the edge of his tail.
Add your two measurements to get the horse’s blanket size. Blankets tend to come in even sizes as small as 30 inches for foals and as long as 88 for large breeds. If you come out with an odd measurement, then round up to the next even number. If you are having a custom blanket made you may be able to get the exact measurement, but a couple extra inches will make sure that the blanket fits with a little space for movement as well.
By measuring your horse you will be able to have a good idea of what to shop for when you are hitting up all of the great summer sales at the local tack shop or online. These measurements will also work for other blankets such as fly sheets and coolers.
Friday, January 2, 2009
Horse people are always eager to save money, especially if it can be done without sacrificing care for their horses. Few consider ways they're losing money on feed.
Storing and feeding of hay is a major expense. Improper storage wastes hay due to mold, broken bales and pests. Where possible keep hay off the ground - dampness often leads to losing most of the bottom layer of hay. If this can't be done - invest in cheap stuff to lose to make up that bottom layer. This keeps your good hay from getting bad on the bottom. Be sure to watch also for leaks in the roof or moisture on the walls where it can make contact with the hay.
Feed hay wisely.
In areas where hay has been hard to find many have taken to stretching their hay budget with other sources of fiber. Shredded beet pulp, hay cubes and more turnout are just a few ways. Be sure to soak the beet pulp and drain, and many advise the same for hay cubes. Smaller horses especially and those with bad teeth have a hard time eating the cubes. Read the package directions - for an average horse only three pounds of cubes are needed! This is not very much..and much less than many feed. Using a couple pounds of cubes, a little beet pulp and *good* hay might be a ticket to a better conditioned horse. Feed hay in a corner or, if outside, in a clean dry place. Some use old tubs with holes drilled in the bottom so they don't collect water. Keep the hay out of the mud and off of sandy areas, which can eventually lead to sand colic.
Storing and feeding grain is another way many lose money. A pile of bags is mouse and rat buffet! Keep grain supplies stored in containers to keep bugs, mice, rats, cats and anything else out of the grain. Keep it dry and invest in good quality. Avoiding water eliminates moldy spots on the bottom that have to be tossed.
Most moderately active geldings do not need a 16% grain and alfalfa. Instead, consider the above hay regiment and a lower protein 10-11% which often is up to $5/bag cheaper. More importantly, the extra nutrition is wasted on horses that don't need it to maintain themselves. Bred mares, working performance horses, breeding stallions and other hard working animals can use a higher level of nutrition but for the average pleasure horse the lower protein better suits their needs.
Measure and weigh your feed.
Don't just toss a flake in - is that flake 8 pounds, 10 pounds or 20 pounds? That coffee can might hold 3 pounds of one feed or another feed 8 pounds - either of these cases it's a huge difference and can be a big waste of money as well as unhealthy for your horse. Weigh it - don't guess. If your feed calls for three pounds, measure three pounds then find a container that holds what you've measure...this can save you time because you know then that one container of it is three pounds.
Supplements are often much overdone. A good quality feeding program most of the time means many supplements aren't needed. However, there are areas that are low selenium, horses with joint issues, show or sale horses being conditioned and other situations where supplements are needed. Keep them stored dry and cool near the feed. Keep the containers up off the ground to eliminate getting tipped over and wasted. MEASURE! Those that come with a scoop and advise feeding one scoop per day follow that advice. Feeding two scoops doesn't give twice the benefit and in many cases is simply flushed through the horse's system unused and, thus, a waste of money.
Consider pastures a new feed source. Seed them with nutritious grasses or a grass/legume mix. Soil test, fertilize, use weed control practices and *use* those fields. A couple hours in a good pasture can do a horse wonders, save on the feed you need to buy and provide a forage that you know for sure what is in it. Avoid turning horses out when it is very muddy, when frozen or when the weight of feet can tear up fields. Limit horses with caulks or other shoes that can damage fields to just an hour or so per day. By making use of the turnout pastures you can contribute positively to the horse's diet and reduce your feed bill.
Purchase good quality hay and grain.
Discounted feed that is riddled with bugs or contaminated is not a bargain! Hay with trash, weeds and sticks in it is not a bargain. If there's a choice between clean grass hay and trashy alfalfa, go with the clean grass. You can supplement, as above, with hay cubes (alfalfa), pellets and other sources. Look closely at your feed. Evaluate if the horses are doing well on it.
If you're not happy with how your horses look, if they have health issues or are less than efficient, make some changes in your feeding program. Consider that if you have Feed A that recommends feeding 10 pounds per day and is $5.75 per 50# bag that's costing you $1.15/day. Feed B recommends feeding 3 pounds per day and is $10.95 per bag costs you would cost you relatively 66 cents per day to feed...and in the long run is cheaper! It will also last you longer per bag.
Use your feed dollars wisely. Fat is not healthy. Obesity is as much a health risk as starvation...it shortens your horse's life, it predisposes them to health issues and it's killing them with kindness. Feed a good quality program on a regular schedule. Make the most of your feed dollars!
Hope you enjoy this weeks rant